The Rise of Chokchok
Inspired by Korean skincare techniques, “skin flooding” is a beauty trend that focuses on applying multiple layers of certain products in a quick succession in order to maximize hydration and other benefits. We’ve seen the rise of “glass skin”, “cloud skin”, and even “glazed donut skin” (shoutout, Hailey Bieber). In Korea, it’s all about “Chokchok” skin. Chokchok means to be filled with hydration and exuding radiance. “Mook-gwang” is another popular term in K-beauty, which literally translates to “water glow”. Keep reading to understand the science behind and how to achieve Chokchok, Mook-gwan skin”.
So, What is Skin Flooding?
Skin “flooding” is just like skin “slugging”, except less gooey and focused on hydration instead of moisture. In skin slugging, consumers apply a petroleum jelly, like Aquaphor or Vaseline , as the last step in a skin routine in order to create a barrier and “lock in” skin care products. In theory, this step prevents products from evaporating during transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and rub-off onto pillows and sleep surfaces. The downside to slugging is that it can make products feel heavy, which is uncomfortable, and can lead to a greasy pillow. While flooding the skin, consumers focus on the layering of lightweight and hydrating products like facial mists, serums, and water-based creams.
The Function of Flooding
Skin flooding works by leveraging the vital order in which skin care products are applied and with the careful layering of each product. Order is the most important step in skin flooding as products absorb into the skin based on thickness — you’ll want to layer on the heaviest products last as if you put a lightweight serum on top of a ceramide cream, for example, by the time the serum begins to get absorbed into the skin, it will be time to wash your face again and thus the skin will not reap the benefits of each product. Carefully layering products allows for fuller absorption and results in skin that is supple and drenched in hydration.
General Benefits
The dermatologic benefits that make skin flooding so popular include:
- Reducing the appearance of dry, flaky, or dehydrated skin
- Soothing irritated skin
- Increasing smoothness, suppleness, and radiance
- Enhancing makeup application by ensuring a smooth base
Benefits for Skin Types
While skin flooding is most beneficial for those with dry or dull skin, it can also be of benefit for oily and combination skin. Though surprising, those with oily may struggle with excess sebum due to a lack of hydration. When the skin is dry, it can overcompensate for the lack of water by producing a surplus of oil. When the skin’s barrier is well-functioning, something that flooding supports, oil production tends to balance out.
How to Flood
Order of Product Application
A good flooding routine pays attention to order in which products are applied. When focusing on hydration, dermatologists recommend the following procession:
- Cleanse: set yourself up for success by washing with a hydrating toner such as
- Toner or Essence: skin flooding also involves layering toners and/or essences — typical single ferment, which make it easier for the skin to absorb.
- See also: the 7 Skin Method, also a K-beauty innovation, refers to strictly to toner or essence and involves patting up to seven layers of product layers onto the skin, letting each dry completely
- Dampen: after cleansing and toning, add hydration onto the skin by splashing on distilled water or using a facial spray. Starting with damp skin makes it so the skin can more easily draw in water to its deepest layers.
- Serum: up next, add on serums to focus on specific skingoals while keeping mind hydration.
- Moisturize: two wrap things up, seal in hydration with a water-based moisturizer. This step can be enhanced by layering on multiple moisturizers too.
- Optional: for very dry skin, consider adding on an occlusive layer like a hydrating balm or a face oil.
Beneficial Active Ingredients
Like with any skincare routine, flooding requires the usage of certain active ingredients depending on skin goals. For hydration-specific goals, focus on products that contain the following active ingredients:
- Hyaluronic Acid: a molecule that attracts and holds on to water
- Glycerin: can help stabilize product and draws water into the skin
- Niacinamide: helps strengthen the skin barrier and improve hydration while potentially decreasing the appearance of pores
- Ceramides: lipids that reinforce and repair the skin’s barrier to prevent hydration loss
Final Thoughts
Skin flooding, though trendy, can be very much worth your time. Almost all skin goals rely on adequate hydration and flooding is one method by which to guarantee it. As always, consult with a dermatologist or licensed aesthetician to establish skin care goals and discuss products that would work best for you skin. Happy flooding!